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Service Home | Q&A | Service Staff |
The following questions have been compiled in no particular order to assist you in troubleshooting any of your TanAmerica low pressure tanning systems. Click on a question to reveal the technical answer for your particular issue at the bottom of the page.
Remember, when performing maintenance on your TanAmerica unit we encourage you to use a hand held screwdriver, NOT a power drill motor!
Question 1
What is the basic electrical configuration for a TanAmerica Low Pressure Unit?Answer 1
TanAmerica Low Pressure Units (except Monterey and some Fiestas) require two hots, one ground, and one neutral. They are identified in the component tray by red and black: hot, white: neutral, and green: ground. These units require a SINGLE phase circuit. In the component tray you will find these leads connected to the blue/grey distribution block. The red and black should be connected to the two blue terminals and the white to the grey terminal. The green ground will be bolted down to the component tray. Some units require plug and some require hardwire. These units require a minimum of 208VAC with a maximum of 240VAC. For individual specifications, please see below.The Monterey and some Fiestas are choke ballast systems. These units require two hots with a ground and are hardwired. These units require232VAC SINGLE phase system. For individual specifications, please refer to the bed requirements PDF.
Question 2
What causes one or two lamps to fail? (For units manufactured after 9/16/2003)Answer 2
If a one or two lamps fail, you will need to follow the steps outlined below to determine the cause:1. REMOVE LAMPS THAT ARE NOT STARTING.
Inspect sockets. A bad socket will be obvious. Look for singeing, broken plastic, or broken brass in the center of socket. If everything looks okay, check lamps.2. CHECK LAMPS
Swap suspect lamp(s) with KNOWN good lamps. If lamp starts, you have a bad lamp. If lamp(s) do not start, you could have a bad ballast. See Check Ballast.3. CHECK BALLAST
Count lamps from the FRONT off unit to determine which ballast may be the issue. (Each ballast powers 2 lamps, but a bad ballast may not take down both lamps, like they would with a normal fluorescent lamp. Ballasts are located in the component tray under the bench. Ballasts are identified with a “B” or “T” with a number. For example: If lamps 1 and 2 are out on the bench, the ballast to check would be marked “B-1.” Swap the ballast harness with the closest one available and start the unit. If lamp(s) fire, ballast is bad. If lamp(s) DO NOT fire, you could have a bad harness. See Check Harness.4. CHECK HARNESS
Install harness from another ballast to the suspect ballast. If lamp(s) fire, harness or its connections are faulty. Check connector on harness and ballast for debris. Check the white and black leads to riser (small Wago Block.) Make sure they are not positioned where the contacts are on wire and not insulation. Note: On DelRey (42 lamps) the last lamp on the bottom and canopy are on the same ballast. It is identified with “T/B.”For Stand Up units, procedure is the same. The ballast for each pair of lamps resides directly behind the lamps. Access ballasts by removing the plastic cover on outside panel.
Question 3
Do my TanAmerica units require a Buck/Boost?Answer 3
Buck/Boost transformers are used to "buck" down or "boost" voltage.The only low pressure units that MAY require a buck/boost are the Monterey and the Fiesta. If this question is prior to purchasing TanAmerica units, contact your sales representative.
All High-Pressure units may require buck/boost. Again, if this question is prior to purchasing TanAmerica units, contact your sales representative.
All Low Pressure units with facials have a buck/boost installed on the component tray. It is for adjusting voltage to the facials ONLY. When you purchase a TanAmerica unit, your sales representative will ask you for your incoming voltage. This will allow our factory to have the buck/boost for facial adjusted correctly.
TanAmerica does not sell buck/boost transformers.
Question 4
How do I get lamp and bed hours from my digital timer?Answer 4
If using TMax Manager or Manager Pro, unplug the power. This WILL NOT disturb any sessions in progress!For Santa Barbara, Catalina, Pacifica, or Del Rey, recycle the power to the timer at each unit by unplugging the 6-pin plug and plugging it in again.
For Stand Up units, the 6-pin is located on the right side of the Gang Box under the floor. Recycle power by unplugging the 6-pin plug and plugging it in again.
The Fiesta and Monterey have a timer power adapter plugged into the wall receptacle. Recycle power by unplugging the power adapter and plugging it in again.
After recycling the timer's power, press the start/stop button. At the same time, press and hold down the "Up" arrow until .1 appears. Then, release both buttons.
Press the up arrow to .6 for lamp hours or .7 for bed hours.
Press the start/stop button and numbers begin flashing. The first set of numbers is hundreds of hours, the second set of numbers is hours up to 99. For example: Flashing 3 then flashing 1 equals 301 hours.
To clear the lamp hours:
While the numbers are flashing, press the up arrow and the down arrow at the same time and the numbers will change to zeros.To get timer back to normal mode, press and release the start/stop button. A solid number will appear. Press the up arrow and the down arrow at the same time and display will return to zero.
Return to TMax Manager, reapply power and allow to cycle back to normal.
Question 5
I have an older unit with a black component tray. Where is the fan delay relay?Answer 5
Fan delay realy is located at the front right of the tray.Depending on the age of the unit, there may be an access plate on the top right front of the tray, secured by two phillips head screws. If so, simply remove the plate, and the fan delay will be exposed. The part is held in place by two chrome clips. Remove the clips and fan delay can be pulled out of the socket.
If there is no access plate, remove the screws on the front bottom of the component tray, and remove the top. Fan delay is located to the front right.
Question 6
I have a lamp out on an older 42 lamp unit, how do I know if it's a lamp or ballast problem?Answer 6
Swap the lamps that are failing with KNOWN good lamps. When lamps are removed from unit, check sockets for obvious problems such as singeing, broken contacts, or broken plastic. Replace as needed. If sockets are OK and known good lamps still do not start, problem is most likely a ballast failing. (Note: A bad ballast will not always show two lamps failing, so you will need to check the ballast, even if only one lamp is out!)To verify a bad ballast, remove the rear plastic of unit to expose the back of the component tray. There are four large cables with colored bands on them, red, white, blue, and black. Before proceding make sure you note where each cable is installed!
Swap the red cable with the blue cable. Then swap the white cable with the black cable.
Start the unit. If lamps on the top were out and they are now out on the bottom, ballast is bad.
Reinstall cables to their original position!!
You will now need to identify which ballast is failing. Starting from the front of the bed (where you enter the bed) count the lamps all the way through to the lamps that are not starting.
The ballasts are labeled with a "T" and a number or a "B" and a number. The "T" denotes the top and the "B" denotes the bottom. Each ballast lights two lamps. For example, if lamps three and four are out on the bottom, the associated ballast is B-2, and so on.
Question 7
I have a lamp out on an older VIP 30 or VIP 32 lamp unit, how do I know if it's a lamp or ballast problem?Answer 7
Swap the lamps that are failing with KNOWN good lamps. When lamps are removed from unit, check sockets for obvious problems such as singeing, broken contacts, or broken plastic. Replace as needed. If sockets are OK and known good lamps still do not start, problem is most likely a ballast failing. (Note: A bad ballast will not always show two lamps failing, so you will need to check the ballast, even if only one lamp is out!)These units have a black, closed component tray. To verify a bad ballast, remove the rear plastic on the unit to expose the back of the component tray. There are two cables on the left side (head end) and two on the right side (foot end.) The left powers the canopy and the right powers the bench.
Swap the two cables to the right with those on the left and start the bed. If ballast is defective, the symptom will have moved. For example, if lamps one and two are out on the top and now they are out on the bottom, you have a bad ballast.
Reinstall cables to their original position!!
You will now need to identify which ballast is failing. Starting from the front of the bed (where you enter the bed) count the lamps all the way through to the lamps that are not starting.
The ballasts are labeled with a "T" and a number or a "B" and a number. The "T" denotes the top and the "B" denotes the bottom. Each ballast lights two lamps. For example, if lamps three and four are out on the bottom, the associated ballast is B-2, and so on.
Question 8
How do I change my radio in my stand up unit?Answer 8
First, prop open the door of the unit.Lift up the floor of the unit, exposing the gang box and the radio power supply. The radio power supply is located in the front of the silver gang box. Check the power leads to radio on side of power supply. Make certain there is a good connection at each lead. If OK, find the amber toggle switch. If illuminated, power supply is operating correctly. If toggle switch is not illuminated, power supply may have failed, toggle is in the off position, or power supply is not plugged in. Check fuse in power supply by removing the power supply cover. If fuse is blown, replace with the same type and amperage. If power supply is good, move to next step.
Remove the radio frame by gently using a small screwdriver to pry it loose.
Locate the radio "keys" in your accessory kit. Insert the keys into the slots on each side of the radio. (This will be the top and bottom of the radio as you look at the stand up unit, as the radio is mounted on it's side on stand up units.) This will release the radio from its housing.
Gently pull the radio out and hold with one hand, with the other hand, remove the antenna connection. With thumb and forefinger, grasp the harness plug, squeeze together, and pull out. This may require some "jiggling" as plug fits tight.
Note that the radio fuse is now exposed. If radio is not working, i.e., has no display or sound, check the fuse first. If the fuse is bad, replace with the same type and amperage. Reinstall and test. To reinstall, reverse the procedure above. If the fuse is not bad, you may need to replace radio. If you have another radio in your salon that is the same model number, install it in unit. If radio operates correctly, replace radio. To install new radio, reverse the procedure above.
Question 9
How do I remove a shock? (All low pressure units, except Monterey and Fiesta)Answer 9
At the rear of the bed, remove plastic from unit. Shock is located on the left side (head end.) Note position of shock, i.e., piston is pointed up or down. It is easier to remove the bottom first.Remove shock by using a small screwdriver. With your right hand, insert head of screwdriver into slot on right hand side of the shock and pry the "keeper" loose, while simultaneously pushing the shock to the right with your left hand. Remember, it is easier to remove the bottom first.
To install a new shock, line up the shocks mounting holes and pop on with the palm of your hand. DO NOT USE A HAMMER!
Note: the Del Rey units use larger shocks than those of other laydown units.
Question 10
How do I change a ball stud? (The part that holds the shock in place)Answer 10
First refer to "How do I remove a shock?" - Question #9You will need two 1/2 inch open-end wrenches.
Put one wrench on the nut that holds the stud to the frame. Put the other wrench on the hex part, just behind the ball. Pull this part down to loosen from nut. Complete job with fingers.
To install new ball stud, reverse the procedure above.
Question 11
How do I replace my radio? (Santa Barbara, Catalina, Pacifica, Del Rey)Answer 11
Locate the radio power supply and turn off power. It is typically located inside the back plastic of unit or on floor exposed behind unit.If you haven't already done so to get to the power supply, remove the rear plastic cover on the unit. Put the canopy in the down position for easier removal of back cover.
At the rear of the radio, remove the wiring harness by grasping the plug with your thumb and forefinger and squeezing. This may require some "jiggling" as plug fits tight. Note that the radio fuse is now exposed. If radio is not working, i.e., has no display or sound, check the fuse first. If the fuse is bad, replace with the same type and amperage and test. If radio is OK, reinstall. To reinstall, reverse the procedure above. If radio still does not work, continue removal process.
Remove the antenna from the radio. Next, remove the phillips head screw holding radio to stabalizer bracket.
At the front of the bed, gently pry off the frame around the radio with a small screwdriver. Locate the radio "keys" in your bed's accessory kit. On each side of the radio there is a small groove. Insert the keys into the slots on each side of the radio. This will release the radio from its housing, allowing you to gently pull the radio out.
To install new radio, reverse the above process.
For older units, you may need to change the radio harness! Contact TanAmerica Techinical Support with service questions.
Question 12
Will my Tmax Timers work with other timer systems?Answer 12
Please refer to the appropriate timer system below for compatibility:FST TIMER SYSTEM
The FST Timer MUST be the type that has the white button only. Leads from the FST Timer connect at the sentry contacts on the Tmax Timer board. Set TMax Parameter 3 to 0, Parameter 9 to 0, and Parameter 19 to 1. Recycle the power to FST Manager and you're ready. The Tmax Timer will show the maximum time even if it is set for less, i.e., a 20 minute timer set for 10 minutes will still show 20 minutes. It will count down to 10 minutes and change to zero when the session is complete.
Call FST: 1-800-243-7826.DATABASE TIMER SYSTEM
Database Timer is compatible with the Tmax Timer. Connect Database Timer to Tmax Timer sentry contacts. Set Tmax Parameter 19 to 1. Recycle power at Database Manager and you're ready.
Call Database: 1-425-402-4412.CCSI TIMERS (INTELITAN)
TMax Timer requires a "SIP" chip for compatibility with CCSI Timers. We recommend contacting Applied Digital (ADI) to assist with setting up timers for this system.
Call Applied Digital: (417) 272-0761.
Question 13
How do I change my digital (TMax) timer board? (All bed mounted timers)Answer 13
If there is a TMax Manager or Manager Pro controlling timers, remove power before proceeding. This WILL NOT disrupt sessions in progress!Turn off power to timer. For Santa Barbara, Catalina, Pacifica, Del Rey, and Stand Up models, remove the 6-pin plug. Other models have timer powered by adapter plugged into wall. Make sure the time display is blank before proceeding.
Remove the four screws holding the timer faceplate to the bed console. (If timer is mounted on wall, use same procedure.) Gently pull the faceplate out, exposing the timer circuit board. Locate the three phillips head screws on the circuit board, remove them, and lift the circuit board off the faceplate. Note: If unit has a facial switch on the faceplate, there is no need to remove. Facial switch has nothing to do with the timer.
Install new board on faceplate before transferring wiring. It is best to have the new timer board in hand and move wires from the old board to the new board one at a time.
Before reinstalling faceplate to console, power up the timer and watch the display. The second number that appears is the current address. Program in correct address if necessary.
Restore power to TMax Manager and allow to cycle. Make sure the new timer appears. Return to bed and reinstall the faceplate to the bed.
Question 14
How do I adjust a canopy that is too low or too high? (All low pressure units, except Monterey and Fiesta)Answer 14
To adjust the canopy, all lamps and acrylics MUST be installed!Some units have an access hole on the rear plastic at the foot end of the unit. You will see the eyebolt through the hinge bar frame. Some units do not have an access hole. On these units, remove the rear plastic to expose the springs. On ALL units, the head end spring is NOT adjustable. The adjustment is done on the spring on the FOOT END. You will need a 9/16 inch open-end wrench.
Loosen the nut under the hinge bar and spin down a couple of inches.
Your canopy should stop and remain about four inches from the bench extrusion when closed.
If the canopy is coming down too far, use the wrench to turn the top nut clockwise. Do this with the canopy in the UP position. This is a "trial and error" process. After a couple of turns, try the canopy to see if you need to turn the nut again. You will eventually hit it just right! When adjustment is complete, secure the bottom nut up against and hinge bar.
If the canopy is not coming down far enough, turn the nut counter-clockwise using the same approach as above.
Question 15
Why is my Del Rey running hot?Answer 15
Most likely fan failure or ambient temperature/air flow is the problem.If all fans are running, check ambient room temperature. Room temperature should be 72 degrees or less. Improper airflow can also cause heat issues. Refer to airflow chart.
If no fans are turning, remove the bottom of the front cover. On the component tray, locate the fan delay relay. It resides in two chrome clips on the right side of the tray. Remove a fan delay relay from another TanAmerica unit and install. If fans now run, replace the fan delay relay. if fans still do not run, contact TanAmerica Technical Support.
The Del Rey has a "reverse air" cooling system, i.e., it draws the air through the unit as opposed to pushing the air through. There are four "muffin" fans installed on the rear of the canopy. Remove the canopy to expose the fans. Start the unit to make sure all of the fans are turning. If one of the muffin fans is not turning, check the connections and try again. If no success, replace.
The Del Rey also has an exhaust fan which is installed on the head end of the unit. This fan is plugged into the side of the bottom plastic. Make sure the plug has not been moved or vibrated loose.
If problem persists, have a qualified electrician contact TanAmerica Technical Support.
Note: When all fans are functioning properly, you MUST replace all plastic parts. Make sure ALL parts are replaced intact. The reverse air flow will be affected if plastic components are missing.
Question 16
Why is my Stand Up unit running hot?Answer 16
Most likely fan failure or ambient temperature/air flow is the problem.If all fans are running, check ambient room temperature. Room temperature should be 72 degrees or less. The Stand Up draws air from the floor and exhausts through the fan(s) on top of the unit. Improper airflow can also cause heat issues. Refer to airflow chart.
If all fans are not running, turn off power to the unit. Locate the electrical "gang box" by lifting up the floor in the Stand Up unit. Loosen the screws holding the lid to the gang box and remove. Locate the fan delay relay which resides on the right side of the gang box. Release the chrome clops and pull the relay out of its socket and inspect.
Remove a fan delay relay from another TanAmerica unit and install it in the gang box. If fans turn, problem is a bad relay, replace fan delay relay. If fans still do not turn, contact TanAmerica Technical Support.
Question 17
Why is my low pressure unit running hot? (All lay-down low pressure units, except Del Rey)Answer 17
Are all fans running at capacity? If you're not sure, compare airflow with another unit.If all fans are running, check ambient room temperature. Room temperature should be 72 degrees or less. Improper airflow can also cause heat issues. Refer to airflow chart.
Is only the canopy running hot? If the canopy is the issue, remove the top cover to expose the fan. Check to see if it is turning. Is only the bench running hot? If the bottom is the issue, remove the front cover of the unit. The bench fan is install on the bottom of the bench. Check to see if it is turning.
If the top or bottom fan is not turning, locate the fan delay relay in the right front corner of the component tray. Swap the fan delay relay from another TanAmerica unit. If all fans now run, the problem is the relay, replace the fan delay relay. If there is no change, replace the fan that is not turning.
Note: Before changing out a fan that is not running, throughly clean the "squirrel cage" on both sides of the fan and check one more time. Poor maintenance of fans will allow dust, lotion, etc. to accumulate in the fan housing and cause the fan not to turn.
Question 18
What causes early burn out of facial lamps? (All units manufactured after 09/16/2003, except Stand Up)Answer 18
Early lamp failure may be due to faulty lamps or high voltage.If only one lamp is failing, inspect sockets for obvious problems. If OK, swap lamp with a KNOWN good lamp. If lamp runs, replace the lamp. If lamp still does not start, see below.
The following should be accomplished only by a qualified electrician. Voltmeter required.
Check incoming voltage at the distribution block on the component tray. Then check output side. If good, you will need to check the facial ignitor. If voltage is 232VAC or higher, check the buck/boost. It should be configured for bypass. Refer to buck boost info.
If buck/boost is set correctly, problem is most likely faulty lamps. Lamp life is approximately 400 hours.
Question 19
How do I retrieve lamp/bed hours from my digital timer?Answer 19
First, unplug power to Tmax Manager. This will not disturb any sessions currently running.For Santa Barbara or Catalina:
Recycycle power to timer by unplugging the "6-pin plug." Access the plug by removing the front plastic under the bench. Plug is located on the right side. Later models will have the 6-pin plug located on the base side plastic, under the bench, on the head end. The Del Rey 6-pin plug is located on the head end side of the base plastic, under the bench. The Stand Up 6-pin plug is located on the right side of the "gang box." Access the gang box by lifting up the floor or the Stand Up unit.For all units, reinstall the plug so the display returns to the timer.
For Fiesta and Monterey units:
Remove the timer power adapter from the wall socket and plug it back in.At the timer, press and hold down the start-stop button, then press the up arrow, holding them both down at the same time. Hold both buttons until a ".1" appears. Release the stop/start button and the up arrow. Now, press the up arrow to change the display to ".6" for lamp hours or ".7" for bed hours. Press and release the start/stop button. The flashing number that appear are the corresponding lamp or bed hours. The first set of numbers is hundreds of hours, the second set of numbers is hours up to 99. For example: Flashing 3, then flashing 1, equals 301 hours.
To clear lamp or bed hours, press the up arrow and down arrow at the same time. All the numbers will be reset to zero.
To get timer back to normal mode, press and release the start/stop button. A solid number will appear. When the solid number appears, press the up and down arrow again at the same time until the display goes back to zero.
Apply power to Tmax Manager and allow to recycle.
Question 20
Why will my unit not start? (All units manufactured after 09/16/2003, except Monterey, Fiesta, and Stand Up)Answer 20
Is unit plugged in or hardwire connected to wall?Is there a zero displayed on the timer?
If not, check to see that the 6-pin plug is connected. Note: The 6-pin plug is black with a grey loop. It may be behind the front cover or the head end or on the head side plastic under the bench.
If 6-pin plug is connected and there is still no display on the timer, check the breaker.
With the breaker on, install the 6-pin timer bypass plug with the red button. This will be in your accessory kit with your TanAmerica unit. Push the red button in. If bed starts, problem is with the timer.
The following procedures should only be accomplished by a qualified electrician!
If problem is with timer, check the connections at the timer board. Access the timer board from the front console by removing the four screws that hold the timer plate to the console and gently remove. Check to make sure the leads to "power in" contacts are tight. If so, use a voltmeter to check voltage. Place probes on screw heads to power in contacts. Voltmeter should read 12VAC.
Note: If unit is a Pacifica, also check to make sure the black amp connector is connected and the connector lock if fully turned clockwise and "snapped" tight.
If amp connector to timer is OK, check incoming voltage at component tray wago main distribution block with voltmeter. Voltage should be 208VAC at a minimum. To check voltage, place voltmeter probes on the two screwheads on the blue part of the block, where the black and red hot leads are connected. Check both the input and output positions.
If there is no voltage at wago block, check voltage at wall. If there's no voltage there, check the breaker.
If voltage is present at wago block and there is a zero displayed on the timer, put at least two minutes on the timer and push the start/stop button twice, as if to start the unit. Check input side of contactor closest to wago block. If voltage is there, check voltage from transformer to the contactor.
Locate the green lead from transformer to the side of first contactor. With voltmeter place one probe on the green ground (#10 wire located next to the incoming wago block) and the other on the green lead on side of contactor. Meter should read 18-24VAC. If below 18VAC, replace transformer.
If not successful with the above procedures, please contact TanAmerica Technical Support.
Question 21
Why do a quarter of my lamps not start? (All units with magnetic ballasts manufactured after 09/16/2003)Answer 21
Check all cable connections at rear of component tray making sure the connector locks are fully turned clockwise and “snapped” tight.It is likely that one side of a contactor is failing. Turn off power to unit. Remove front plastic cover to expose component tray. Locate the 2 contact relays on the right shelf. Check the contacts on the relays for debris. Even a “dust bunny” will cause a failure. If debris found clean out with vacuum. Once relay is clean, restore power to unit and test run. If symptom is still present, follow procedures below.
The remainder of this trouble shooting should be accomplished by qualified electrician! Voltmeter is required.
To determine which contactor to check, you will need to know how to determine which ballasts are affected by counting each lamp from the front of the unit (where you enter the unit.) Each pair of lamps is powered by one ballast. The ballasts are identified in the component tray with a “T” (top) or a “B” (bottom) and a number. For example: lamps 1 and 2 on the bottom will have a ballast marked B-1, lamps 3 and 4, B-2, and so on.
Contactors are arranged by each side powering of the lamps as follows:
The contactor closest to the incoming power distribution block is set up as follows:
Red lead: powers ballasts B-5 thru B-8
Black lead: powers ballasts T-5 thru T-8The second contactor is set up as follows:
Red lead: powers ballasts T-1 thru T-4
Black lead: powers ballasts B-1 thru B-4With bed powered up and runnng, check output side of appropriate contactor with voltmeter to determine if voltage is getting through. If no voltage, double check the input side, if no voltage there either, contactor is defective.
If voltage is present on output side, follow appropriate lead to the “riser” block. There is one on each bank of ballasts. Do voltage check there, both input and output. Also remove and reinstall leads on both sides of block to ensure that the contacts are on wire and not on insulation. If voltage is present but symptom still there, contact TanAmerica Technical Support.
Question 22
How do I install cables to rear of low pressure component tray? (Del Rey is the exception)Answer 22
At rear of unit, the two cables for the canopy are installed on the left side (head end) and the cables for the bench are installed on the right side (foot end) of the component tray.The cable amp connectors, black cable ends with pins, have a small notch with the letters “amp”. This is the 12 o’clock position. Having the amp notch top center will make it easy to line up the pins correctly from the cable to the component tray. Once connectors are lined up correctly, gently push them in until seated. Turn the connector lock clockwise until it “snaps” tight! Some units have two different sized amp connectors. Simply match to the correct connector on the component tray.
It is important that these cables are installed in correct positions due to movement of canopy and different voltages on canopy and bench!
Del Rey Exception:
The Del Rey cables are different in that they are color coded. Make sure the color on the cable matches the color on the componenet tray! Installing the cables is the same as above.The facial (if equipped) and console cables for all models are marked as such and are installed in the same manner.
Question 23
What causes two or all facials to fail? (All units manufactured after 09/16/2003)Answer 23
Note: make sure facial interlock switch is engaged when testing facials. If facial cassette is released the interlock is not engaged and must be pushed in manually!The interlock switch is located at front right corner of canopy. You must drop the facial glass housing down or remove the end cap to locate.
Check the facial cable at rear of component tray before performing any trouble shooting! If pins and connection are good reinstall making sure the connector lock is fully turned clockwise and “snaps” tight.Two facials out typically indicates lamp failure. Swap with known good lamps. If lamps still do not ignite, refer to “single facial out” instructions- Question 24.
ALL FACIALS OUT
All facials out indicates common component failure, inadequate voltage, too much voltage or lamps at the end of their life.
The following procedures must be accomplished by a qualified electrician!
It is best to check voltage first. Remove front cover to expose component tray. Locate wago distribution block on shelf on head (right side) of component tray. With voltmeter set to at least 232VAC, place probes on red and black screw heads, should read at least 208VAC.
If reading is above 240VAC you will need to buck down 12 volts. If reading is below 232VAC, facial buckboost will need to be boosted. If voltage is between 232VAC and 240VAC, facial buckboost will need to be configured for bypass. Refer to buck/boost instructions to determine if it is configured correctly. Refer to buck boost info.
If voltage reading is OK, check black to neutral and then red to neutral. Reading on each should be 50% of the hot readings. (make sure the yellow neutral jumper on the wago block is tight!) If not, problem likely is with the neutral circuit. Check neutral in wall, if ok, need to have qualified person check neutral at breaker box. Note: some electricians attempt to “daisy chain” neutrals!! This will not work! All circuits need to be dedicated to that unit!
If incoming power is OK, check the facial relay. On facial shelf, left front of component tray, locate the facial relay. Device is black with six pins on it, 2 by themselves on one end and a cluster of 4 pins on the other end. Turn on the bed and then turn on the facials. Listen for the relay to “click”. If relay does not click it is likely bad. It is fairly simple to swap a relay from a unit that is running correctly to verify. If this option is used, make sure electrical is off when removing and installing relays!
If using a voltmeter, place probes on the 2 pins that are by themselves, should get 24vac. If not, follow black and white/black leads to wago on right component shelf, do voltage check there. If voltage good there, it is likely the facial relay is bad.
If electrical and facial relay appear good, now check the facial on/off switch. Switch is located on the timer assembly. The easiest way to access it is to remove the four screws that hold timer plate in place and gently pull out to expose timer circuit board and the back of the facial switch. Make sure the leads to the facial switch are secure. Try to start the facials again.
If still not firing, remove the leads from the facial switch. Push the insulation back to expose the metal contacts, use a screwdriver to “jumper” the leads. This must be done with the bed running. You may also use a piece of wire as a jumper. This is a low voltage circuit, 24vac.
If facial switch appears good, check the safety interlock switch. To access, loosen the two screws that hold the facial cassette in place, being careful that it does not drop down on its own! Locate the white interlock switch located at the front right near the excrusion. Engage the switch by pushing in manually. This is to ensure the cassette is not loose when in place. Check both leads to make sure there is good connection. If connection good, need to jumper in the same manner as the on/off switch above.
If you have no success using the above procedures, please contact TanAmerica Technical Support.
Question 24
What causes a single facial to fail? (All units manufactured after 09/16/2003)Answer 24
Remember that you cannot turn the facial off during a session and then turn it back on! Facials require cool down period. If this is the case advise your customers!Does the facial ignite first thing in the morning but is failing at start up later in the day? Check fan delay in component tray and turn up to 8 minutes. To access fan delay, remove front cover of unit to expose component tray. Fan delay is black device with dial on top. It resides on shelf on right with chrome clips holding it in place. Then monitor lamp. If symptom disappears, it means the cool down was too short between sessions and there should be no further problem.
If problem persists, check ambient room temperature. Room temperature should be 72 degrees or less. Improper airflow can also cause heat issues. Refer to airflow chart.
Do not attempt the following procedure unless you are qualified electrician!
Note: if this is new unit, check incoming voltage. If voltage is under 232v, check buck/boost for correct setting. Refer to buck boost info. Buck/boost is the large black transformer located on the left side of component tray. If voltage is 208vac, you will need to boost 24volts. This affects the facial only!
Check facial cable connection at rear of component tray. Remove cable, inspect pins and reinstall making sure the connector lock is fully turned clockwise and “snapped” tight.
Turn off power to unit! Remove lamp from facial sockets. Inspect socket’s brass contacts. If there are no obvious problems, clean brass contacts with emory board or soft sandpaper. Also squeeze the sockets toward each other to make sure there is a snug fit. Note: facial lamps are not all exactly the same length! Reinstall lamp power up unit and test. If KNOWN good lamp does not start, check voltage on ignitor. When testing facial make sure the safety interlock switch is engaged!!!
Checking ignitor voltage (voltmeter required)
Note: do not attempt this procedure if you are not a qualified electrician!Remove masking plate from canopy to expose components. Ignitor is rectangular green device with three pins on one end. (may be chrome cylinder if older bed). Set voltmeter to a minimum of 230VAC. To check voltage turn on unit and facial…making sure the interlock switch is engaged!!…..place voltmeter probes on the outside pins (ballast & neutral) if voltage is 130VAC plus/minus, ignitor is ok. If reading is over 200VAC or significantly less than 130VAC, the ignitor is bad. Note: do not put voltmeter probe on the middle (lamp) pin on ignitor. There is a good chance it will damage the voltmeter!
If ignitor appears to be good, remove the facial reflector and check the splice from sockets to wiring harness. They may have singed or broken loose. If all ok there, remove front cover of unit to access component tray.
On the facial shelf left front of component tray, locate the facial relay. Device is black with six pins on it, 2 by themselves on one end and a cluster of 4 pins on the other end. Turn on the bed and then turn on the facials. Listen for the relay to “click” if it clicks should be ok, if it does not click the relay is bad or not getting voltage. Using voltmeter place probes on the 2 pins that are by themselves, should get 24VAC. If this procedure is not successful contact TanAmerica Technical Support.
Question 25
How do I determine why fans are not running? (All units with magnetic ballasts manufactured after 09/16/2003)Answer 25
No fans running:
Make sure all cables to rear of ballast tray are installed correctly and in correct position.
Are any lamps flickering or out? If there is no lamp issue, swap fan delay from another unit to verify if it is bad. If there are flickering lamps, swap fan delay and test. If symptom still exists trip breaker to unit off. Next you will need to check neutral connections. Neutral is white wire. Check receptacle in wall, make sure connection to receptacle is clean and tight. If hardwire, make sure the connection is good.If all is good there, check plug, if equipped, to make sure all is tight and correct.
If all is good there, check neutral at Wago distribution block in ballast tray. Make sure the yellow jumper on grey side of Wago is secure.Worse case, check all white leads from Wago to where they terminate.
If any of the above do not solve issue, you will need electrician with voltmeter to visit your salon and contact TanAmerica Technical Support.
Top fan not running:
Open top cover to expose motor. (fiesta has metal housing) check the amp connectors to motor. Open connector and inspect pins to make sure all ok. Reconnect making sure the connecter lock is fully turned clockwise until it snaps tight.
If all good, swap the fan delay with another from a bed running properly. If blo-motor starts, replace fan delay. If blo-motor does not start, replace.Top fans not running Del Rey:
Beginning w/serial #651
There are two blo-motors on rear of canopy. They are connected with amp connectors with leads going to a 4 conductor wago block in between them. If one blo-motor is out, swap the leads from the other blo-motor and start machine. If suspect blo-motor does not start, replace. If it does start, swap fan delay from another unit and test.
Bottom fans not running:
Del Rey beginning w/serial #651
Open rear cover and locate the amp connector to blo-motors. Open amp connector and inspect pins, if ok reconnect making sure the connector lock is fully turned clockwise and snaps tight. If one blo-motor is not turning refer to top fan instructions.
As a last resort, swap fan delay with one from unit that is operating correctly. If blo-motor runs, replace fan delay, if blo-motor still does not run replace blo-motor.Console blo-motor not running:
Console blo-motor typically fails because blo-motor is bad or the fan speed control has failed.
Remove rear cover of unit to expose the chrome blo-motor housing. Locate the amp connector from blo-motor, open and inspect pins, if ok, need to determine if blo-motor or fan speed control is failing.The easiest way to accomplish this is to connect a two conductor cord from pins on blo-motor amp connector and plug direct into 120v wall receptacle. If blo-motor runs, the fan speed control is faulty. If blo-motor does not run, replace.If you are unable to do the above, you will need to identify which wago configuration they have to know how to “hot wire” the blow motor. Contact TanAmerica Technical Support.On Del Rey with floor fan, swap the leads from the fan speed control for the floor fan with the leads from the console control at the wago block. The console fan speed control is the top one and the bottom is for the floor fan. If blo-motor turns, the fan speed control for the console is bad. You may need to cut the zip ties to locate correct leads. You will need a flat 1/8 inch screwdriver to release/install leads to wago block. If this option is used make sure you mark the original location of leads!!
Noisy blo-motors typically need to be replaced. Most often the bearings that the spindle turns on have failed or part of the “squirrel cage” housing has broken. If noise is coming from the console blo-motor, remove the rear cover, open the blo-motor housing and make sure there is no debris. Tanamerica does not sell parts for blo-motors, you will need to purchase new unit.
Question 26
How do I protect my timer system and computer from voltage fluctuation?Answer 26
TanAmerica recommends installing a UPS (uninterruptible power supply). This will provide protection and consistent voltage to your timer system and computer. Depending on which variety you purchase it can also provide battery back up. TanAmerica does not sell these devices. Using a standard power strip with surge protector may not be sufficient.
Question 27
Why is my 42 Lamp unit running hot? (For units with serial numbers through 650)Answer 27
Most likely fan failure or ambient temperature/air flow is the problem.If all fans are running, check ambient room temperature. Room temperature should be 72 degrees or less. Improper airflow can also cause heat issues. Refer to airflow chart.
If no fans are turning, remove the bottom of the front cover. On the component tray, locate the fa